Dandruff
Dandruff
18 Tips to Stop Flaking
Sometimes it's good to be a little "flaky." You know, a little offbeat. A little creative. It gives you character. Makes you unique—memorable. But if all that people remember about you is your flaking dandruff, your flakiness is off in the wrong direction.
And you are not alone. Some hairdressers say dandruff is the single most common scalp complaint their patrons have. And dermatologists agree that virtually everyone has the problem to some degree.
So if you're just itching to get to the root of this head-scratching problem, listen to the experts.
Don't ignore it. Whatever you do, don't ignore your dandruff or fall into a scratch-and-itch cycle, says Maria Hordinsky, M.D., a dermatologist and assistant professor at the University of Minnesota Medical School-Minneapolis. Ignoring the condition lets the scaling build up on your scalp. That in turn can cause itching, which can lead to scratching. Scratching too vigorously can wound the scalp and leave it open to infection.
Shampoo often! The experts are unanimous on this point: Wash your hair often—every day if necessary. "Generally, the more frequently you shampoo, the easier it is to control the dandruff," says New Orleans dermatologist Patricia Farris, M.D., a clinical assistant professor at Tulane University School of Medicine.
Start mild. Often a mild, nonmedicated shampoo is enough to control the problem. Dandruff is frequently caused by an overly oily scalp, says New York City hair care specialist Philip Kingsley. Shampooing daily with a mild brand diluted with an equal amount of distilled water can control the oil without aggravating your scalp.
Then get tough. If regular shampoos aren't doing the job, switch to an antidandruff formula. Dandruff shampoos are classified by their active ingredients, which work in different ways. According to Diana Bihova, M.D., New York City dermatologist and clinical instructor at New York University Medical Center, those with selenium sulfide or zinc pyrithione work fastest, retarding the rate at which scalp cells multiply. Those with salicylic acid and sulfur loosen flakes so they can be washed away easily. Those with antibacterial agents cut down bacteria on the scalp and reduce the chance of infection. Those with tar retard cell growth.
Beat the tar out of it. "For very stubborn cases, I recommend tar-based formulas," says Dr. Farris. "Lather with the tar shampoo and then leave it on for 5 or 10 minutes so the tar has a chance to work." Most people rinse dandruff shampoos off too quickly, she says.
If you've avoided tar shampoos because you remember them as having unpleasant smells, be aware that many newer formulas are much more pleasant.
Don't be too harsh. If tar-based shampoos—or any other dandruff preparations—are too harsh for everyday use, alternate them with your regular shampoo, says Dr. Farris.
MEDICAL ALERT
Is It Dandruff or Dermatitis? Severe dandruff is actually a disease known as seborrheic dermatitis, which requires prescription medications. See a doctor if you have: - Scalp irritation
- Thick scale despite regular use of dandruff shampoos
- Yellowish crusting
- Red patches, especially along the neckline
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Don't mix black with blond. If you have blond or silver hair, you might want to think twice about tar-based shampoos. They can give light hair a brownish stain, says Dr. Farris.
Lather twice. Always lather twice with a dandruff shampoo, says R. Jeffrey Herten, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, Irvine, California College of Medicine. Work up the first lather as soon as you step into the shower so the shampoo has sufficient time to work. Leave it on until you're just about finished with your shower. Then rinse your hair very thoroughly. Follow that with a quick second lather and rinse. The second rinse will leave just a bit of the medication on your scalp so it can work until your next shampoo.
Cap it. Dr. Bihova has still another approach to improving the effectiveness of medicated shampoos. After you lather up, put a shower cap on over your wet hair. Leave it on for an hour, then rinse as usual.
Switch-hit. If you've found a brand of shampoo that works well for you, keep using it, says Toronto dermatologist Howard Donsky, M.D., an associate professor at the University of Toronto. Be aware, however, that your skin can adapt to a shampoo's ingredients, so you'd be wise to change your brand every few months to maintain its effectiveness.
Massage it in. When shampooing, says Dr. Farris, gently massage your scalp with your fingertips to help loosen scales and flakes. But don't scratch your scalp, she warns. That can lead to sores that are worse than the dandruff.
Flake off. Louisville dermatologist Joseph F. Fowler, Jr., M.D., an assistant professor at the University of Louisville, recommends an over-the-counter product called P&S Liquid for people with particularly stubborn scaling and crusting. Apply it to your scalp at bedtime and cover your hair with a shower cap. Wash it out in the morning. Although you can use this preparation every night, Dr. Fowler recommends once-a-week treatments. "It's just too messy for daily use," he says.
Invest some extra thyme. Thyme is reputed to have mild antiseptic properties that can help alleviate dandruff, says New York City hair stylist Louis Gignac. Make an effective rinse by boiling 4 heaping tablespoons of dried thyme in 2 cups of water for 10 minutes. Strain the brew and allow it to cool. Pour half the mixture over clean damp hair, making sure the liquid covers the scalp. Massage in gently. Do not rinse. Save the remainder for another day.
Steer clear of beer. If you use beer as a rinse and styling lotion, it may be causing your dandruff, says Gignac. Beer can dry out your scalp and eventually lead to dandruff, he says.
Get into condition. Although dandruff shampoos are effective on your scalp, they can be a little harsh on your hair, says Dr. Farris. So be sure to apply conditioner after every shampoo to counteract their effects.
Strike oil. Although excess scalp oil can cause problems, an occasional warm-oil treatment helps loosen and soften dandruff scales, says Dr. Herten. Heat a few ounces of olive oil on the stove until just warm. Wet your hair (otherwise the oil will soak into your hair instead of reaching your scalp), then apply the oil directly to your scalp with a brush or cotton ball. Section your hair as you go so you treat just the scalp. Put on a shower cap and leave it on for 30 minutes. Then wash out the oil with a dandruff shampoo.
Let the sun shine. "A little sun exposure is good for dandruff," says Dr. Fowler. That's because direct ultraviolet light has an anti-inflammatory effect on scaly skin conditions. And it may explain why dandruff tends to be less severe in summer.
But by all means, says Dr. Fowler, use sun sense. Don't sunbathe; just spend a little time outdoors. Limit sun exposure to 30 minutes or less per day. And wear your normal sunscreen on exposed skin. "You have to balance the sun's benefit to your scalp against its harmful effect on your skin in general," he advises.
Calm down. Don't overlook the role emotions play in triggering or worsening skin conditions such as dandruff and other forms of dermatitis. These conditions are often made worse by stress, says Dr. Fowler. So if your emotions are overtaxed, look for ways to counteract the stress. Exercise. Meditate. Get away from it all. And don't worry so much about your dandruff!
PANEL OF ADVISERS
Diana Bihova, M.D., is a dermatologist in private practice and clinical instructor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center in New York City. She is coauthor of Beauty from the Inside Out.
Howard Donsky, M.D., is an associate professor of medicine at the University of Toronto and staff dermatologist at Toronto General Hospital. He is author of Beauty is Skin Deep.
Patricia Farris, M.D., is a dermatologist in private practice in New Orleans, Louisiana. She is also clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans.
Joseph F. Fowler, Jr., M.D., is a dermatologist in private practice in Louisville, Kentucky. He is also assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Louisville. In addition, he is a member of the North American Contact Dermatitis Group, an elite skin-allergy research group.
Louis Gignac is a New York City hair stylist who is the owner of the Louis-Guy D Salon. He is also the author of Everything You Need to Know to Have Great-Looking Hair.
R. Jeffrey Herten, M.D., is assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, Irvine, California College of Medicine.
Maria Hordinsky, M.D., is a dermatologist in private practice in Minneapolis. She is also assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School-Minneapolis.
Philip Kingsley is a trained trichologist (hair care specialist) who maintains salons in New York City and London. He is the author of The Complete Hair Book.
