Buying Shoes

When we were kids and the entire universe was simpler, it was easy to buy what were then called gym shoes or sneakers. You''d accompany a parental unit to JCPenney on Main Street, where you''d find maybe two different canvas/rubber models in the right size. You''d try them on, and Mom or Pop would press the tip of the shoe and ask, "Is that where your toe is? Do they feel okay?" Two yesses and you were gone. You''d wear your sneaks to school until they got holes in them, then wear them some more at home until stitches and laces could no longer keep them together.

Today, we go to discount megastores (they account for the largest share of sales by far), where we find walls and walls of "athletic footwear": running shoes, walking shoes, hiking shoes, basketball shoes, court shoes, aerobic shoes, cross-training shoes, uptown, downtown, all-around-the-town shoes. Who''s responsible for this infernal diversity?

The shoemakers, of course, who, by segmenting the market for different uses, can sell us two or three pairs of shoes instead of one. But it''s not entirely them. It''s us, too. We enjoy footwear that caters to the specific abuses to which our tender peds are subjected. "Growth in the industry has mirrored the growth of athletic and active culture in general," says Gregg Hartley, executive director of the Athletic Footwear Association (AFA).

What the running and aerobic booms of the 1970s and early 1980s made apparent was that when feet are pounded repeatedly in the same manner, a sneaker just isn''t enough. "Sprain your ankle, get a stress fracture, develop tendinitis—these are all things that can happen from wearing the wrong shoe for the activity," says Michael Lowe, D.P.M., team podiatrist for the Utah Jazz basketball team.

Selecting a Shoe Type

Which brings us back to those endless aisles of options. What''ll you have: uppers of leather, canvas, soft nylon, mesh nylon or a combination? Soles of black carbon or styrene-butadiene rubber? Midsoles of polyurethane, EVA, air, silicone or honeycomb?

Enough already. To decide what''s right for you, don''t start with the shoe and what it offers but with yourself and what you need, realizing that a certain amount of the technical stuff is sheer marketing hype. "Features like air pumps or ''energy return systems'' are largely gimmicks," says Carol Frey, M.D., associate professor of orthopaedic surgery at the University of Southern California School of Medicine and director of the Orthopaedic Foot and Ankle Center at Orthopaedic Hospital, both in Los Angeles, and a leading medical expert on athletic shoes. "If you can lace your shoes correctly, that''s enough to give you an excellent fit. And energy return is something your feet provide naturally even when you''re barefoot."

Sales gimmicks aside, the fundamental question to ask yourself is, do you need a different shoe for every activity that you participate in? For a lot of us, the answer is clearly no, says Dr. Frey. Just look at what people tend to buy and why. According to the AFA, the biggest slice of the sales pie— a full quarter of it—goes to basketball shoes. The next biggest categories are cross training (19 percent), walking (13 percent) and running (10 percent) shoes. (See "What Sells Best" on page 324 for more information on athletic shoe sales.) All of these shoes have lots of crossover appeal: You can wear them exercising, and you can wear them buying groceries. In fact, AFA surveys reveal that having a performance advantage only ranks third in consumer opinions about what''s "very important" in an athletic shoe. Uppermost in priority are the more general qualities of "comfort, fit and feel" and "suits active lifestyle" (see "What Buyers Say Is Important in Athletic Shoes" on page 324).

"A cross-training shoe (which is designed to be used for multiple activities) does a perfectly good job of supporting and protecting the foot if you play a little tennis, walk or lift weights," says Dr. Lowe. Beyond that, the need for a specialty shoe is strictly a matter of how much time you spend at one thing.

"The rule of thumb is that if you do a given activity three or more times a week, you need a sport-specific shoe," says Dr. Frey. "The only exceptions are running and basketball, which are the two sports with the highest injury rates to the feet and knees. For those, you should buy special shoes even if you only do them once a week."

Lacing for All Occasions For the most part, we all lace our shoes the same way. Yet our feet are all different, with different problems and needs. Are you lacing your shoes the best possible way for your feet? Maybe not, says Carol Frey, M.D., associate professor of orthopaedic surgery at the University of Southern California School of Medicine and director of the Orthopaedic Foot and Ankle Center at Orthopaedic Hospital, both in Los Angeles. She points out that manufacturers actually design their shoes to provide lacing options, but we largely ignore them. Here are some innovative lacing patterns she recommends for a number of different problems. A: Narrow feet. Running laces through eyelets that are set more widely apart pulls the sides of the shoe more tightly over the top of the foot. B: Wide feet. Running laces through eyelets that are closer to the tongue of the shoe widens the la cing area and relieves binding. C: High arches. Lacing shoes straight across from eyelet to eyelet so that the laces never cross over one another eliminates pressure points on the tongue that can aggravate pain. D: Slipping heel. Lacing as you normally would, but then using the last two eyelets on both sides to form a tuggable loop closes the top of the shoe more snugly. E: Pain on the top of the foot. Eliminating lace crossover in spots where you have a bruise or tendon injury helps alleviate pain. F: Pain in the toes. By first running one side of the lace all the way to the top eyelet, you form a buffer between your foot and the remainder of the lace (which you run through all other eyelets), suspending the lace off ingrown toenails or corns . A: Laced through outside eyelets B: Laced through inside eyelets C: Laces travel in straight lines from eyelet to eyelet D: Create a loop between the first and second eyelets on each side; then feed the laces across to the opposite loop E: Laces left uncrossed over injured area F: First lace goes from top eyelet to bottom eyelet on opposite side; then work the one lace back to the top

What Makes Shoes Different

Once you know what to look for, well, what do you look for? How is one type of shoe distinct from another? In what ways will your feet appreciate the differences? Here''s a brief rundown of the qualities that characterize each major category as you browse the aisles, according to our experts.

Running. Even though it''s not the best-selling category, most of the research and design innovations have occurred in running shoes, which require superior performance on a number of levels. First and foremost, a good running shoe needs plenty of cushioning to dampen the impact of feet striking the ground: You''ll find extra padding in the heel and some form of shock-absorbing material in the midsole, such as air, gel, polyurethane or EVA (ethyl vinyl acetate, a plastic foam). In addition, the shoe needs to provide stability as the foot rolls from heel strike to pushoff, flexibility to allow the foot to bend and traction to maximize grip. The sole is key to all three. It should have lugs for traction and stability and lines at the forefoot for flexibility, and it should sweep up over the toe, also for traction and stability. Ideally, the shoe will also be lightweight, with uppers usually made of nylon.

Walking. Because the motions involved are similar, you''ll find many elements of running shoes in walking shoes, particularly shock-absorbent heels and midsoles. There are differences, however. First, because weight is less an issue with walking shoes, uppers are often made of leather. The forefoot, while needing to be flexible, may be stiffer than that of a running shoe, which requires more toe bending, and the heel area may be stiffer as well. Soles generally have a less-prominently lugged, lower-profile tread, often with a herringbone pattern.

Basketball. The most obvious feature of a basketball shoe is the high-top design for stabilizing the ankle during jumps. (Some players wear low-cut models for the sake of superior agility, but Dr. Frey advises against this because ankle injuries are less common in high-tops.) Unlike running and walking shoes, whose soles are rounded to enhance the forward rolling of the feet, basketball soles are flat to accommodate quick stops and snap movements backwards and sideways. The treads are likely to have geometric patterns with multiple edges, such as squares and diamonds, to allow superior traction in many different directions, along with a circular pivot point at the ball of the foot.

Court. Technically, a basketball shoe is a court shoe, since racquet sports and basketball demand similar movements, with one exception: Basketball requires more vertical jumping. "A court shoe often has harder composite materials on the bottom because it doesn''t have to be as forgiving as a basketball shoe," says Dr. Lowe. Still, a court shoe will have cushioning in the midsole and insole, with a firm heel structure and roomy toe area that has reinforcement across the front. You don''t need a high-top, but it''s important to have good ankle support, says Dr. Frey, which is why some models offer mid-cut styling.

Cross-training. The Great Compromise. Cross-trainers offer some of everything for the casual exerciser but not enough of anything for the serious athlete. "It''s a category that''s tough to categorize," says Dr. Frey. "Some are designed to combine running and walking, others running and hiking, others are more court cross-trainers. There are all kinds." Generally, though, cross-trainers are mid-cut, with a look that''s closest to court shoes. The toe area and toe cap are less substantial than a basketball shoe''s, but more substantial than a running shoe''s. They''re less flexible than running shoes, but they provide more lateral stability for activities such as stepping or aerobics.

Aerobic. This is one category that may be largely lost on men, since we don''t exactly flock to jazzercize and "Sweatin'' to the Oldies" classes. For all practical purposes, there''s nothing an aerobics shoe provides that you won''t find in a cross-trainer. In fact, Dr. Frey notes, an aerobic shoe really is a kind of cross-trainer, since it combines the light weight and shock absorption of a running shoe with the stability and toe/heel reinforcement of a court shoe.

Hiking/outdoors. At last count, hiking boots and outdoor shoes only comprised 7 percent of the athletic footwear market, but it''s the fastest growing category of all. The distinction between walking and hiking is largely a matter of toughness and terrain. Hiking boots and shoes place a premium on water resistance, so they''re put together using few seams where water might trickle in. The heel is reinforced, the ankles are supported with a padded high-top structure and the toes are given plenty of room. Soles are firm and heavily lugged for traction and durability.

Running	Walking	Basketball
Court	Cross-Training

How to Make the Perfect Purchase

When buying athletic shoes, you are on your own. Assuming there''s a salesperson to advise you (hardly something you can count on), he or she won''t necessarily be knowledgeable about shoes or (especially) about your feet. Even the professionals have a tough time of it. "Getting a proper fit is one of the major battles we deal with all the time," explains Dr. Lowe of his work with the Utah Jazz. "You can have a shoe that has all the fancy bells and whistles, but if it doesn''t fit, you''ll still have sprained ankles, stress fractures and tendinitis."

The first rule is to spend enough. Buying a $70 shoe instead of a $30 one will generally get you more support, lighter weight and better materials in greater quantity. But whatever your budget, it''ll be easier to make a regrets-free purchase if you follow these tips.

Check where there''s wear. The ways you''ve eroded your old shoes can help guide you to new ones. If, for example, the back of the heel is worn toward the outside of the foot, you tend to roll along the outer edge when you run (this is known as underpronating). Underpronators have rigid, immobile feet; they should buy shoes that are heavily cushioned and feature soft midsoles and less medial support. These shoes are usually built on a curved form to encourage foot motion.

Overpronators roll their weight to the inside of the foot, so the heel will be more worn toward the inside. It is the more common problem. Overpronators should buy motion-control shoes: rigid, heavy and durable. Such shoes might include features such as a medial post, a polyurethane midsole and a carbon rubber outsole. Many are built on a straight shoe form to offer more stability and support.

Examine the new shoe. You need a shoe that will stay comfortable and in one piece for the duration. Feel the inside for places where stitching is raised or coming loose. If you find any, select another shoe. Look at where the sole and upper come together and try peeling the pieces back from each other. "If I can stick a credit card between them, I don''t like that shoe," Dr. Frey says.

Try different sizes. Numbers on boxes mean nothing. A size 11 from three different makers will fit three different ways. You will find what you need comfort-wise only through trial and error. Avoid ordering through the mail unless the supplier has a terrific return policy, advises Dr. Frey.

Get a three-way fit. To get good comfort and support, pay attention to three primary parameters, says Dr. Frey.

* The longest of your toes should clear the end of the shoe by 3/8 to ½ inch—about the width of your thumb.

* The ball of the foot should fit comfortably into the widest part of the shoe.

* The heel should fit snugly without any slippage.

Put on both shoes. Typically, one of your feet is slightly larger than the other. Getting a perfect fit only on the smaller foot means the larger one may be cramped. If you already know which foot is biggest, base your purchase on how that foot fits, recommends Dr. Frey. And stand up after lacing to let your foot spread out.

Shop late. Feet swell by as much as 5 percent between morning and evening, says William Rossi, D.P.M., a consultant to the footwear industry. Fitting too early in the day could get you a shoe that pinches.

Don''t force it. There are lots of tricks and traplines a salesperson may use to rationalize a purchase. Don''t fall for:

* "That''s a good, snug fit." Snug means tight, maybe too tight, says Dr. Rossi. Snug in the heel is good. Snug anywhere else is a prescription for pain.

* "It will stretch out." No it won''t. Shoes may become more comfortable as they conform to your gait, but you should never compromise on the three-way fit (front-to-back, side-to-side, top-to-bottom). "It either fits or it doesn''t," Dr. Lowe says.

* "If you wear thicker socks, it''ll be perfect." So you need a new sock wardrobe, too? Before going to the store, put on the socks you plan to wear with the shoe. If you can''t fit those socks, look elsewhere, says Dr. Frey.

When to Replace Shoes

It''s tough to say good-bye to an old friend, especially one that still looks so good for its age. But used shoes are like used cars: They can look great on the outside but be trashed where it counts. Here are some guidelines on when to relegate shoes to garden duty.

For running, measure miles. Repeated pounding eventually compresses the cushioning materials that are running shoes'' reason for being. Replacement is partly a matter of your weight and the surface you run on. If you tend to run on hard surfaces like concrete or plant your feet heavily, replace running shoes every 300 miles. If you run on soft surfaces or are light on your feet, get a new pair every 500 miles, recommends Dr. Frey.

For others, clock hours. A sturdy cross-trainer can withstand 100 to 125 hours of wear and tear from a 185-pound man who exercises four or five days a week, according to Tom Brunick, director of the Athlete''s Foot WearTest Center at North Central College in Naperville, Illinois, and a technical editor for Runner''s World magazine. A man weighing less than 170 pounds could eke out an additional 25 hours or so. That translates to four to six months of use. Note, however, that this assumes a fairly intense exercise schedule, with shoes getting pounded almost every day. If you allow more of a break between exercise sessions, either by working out less or rotating different pairs of shoes, cushioning materials may decompress slightly, providing perhaps another month of wear, he says.

Get a rear view. Put your shoes on a counter and look at them from behind. If they list to one side or the other, the midsole cushioning is probably shot, says Brunick.

Compare for wear. Go to a store and try on a new pair of the model you''re currently wearing, recommends Brunick. If the cushioning of your old shoes feels dead compared to the new ones, it probably is.

Don''t ignore the obvious. If the upper is worn through or the lugs on the bottom are fading away, you''re pulling a Norman Bates: keeping in your closet a cherished shell whose sole has long since departed.