Setting Up a Home Gym

Gyms are scarce near your home or work. You don''t want yet another spigot on your wallet. You can''t spare the time it takes to get to a gym and back. You fail to see the need for tons of fancy equipment to achieve your fitness goals. You''re not at ease with the spandex crowd.

Those are just a few reasons we could come up with for not joining a gym. No doubt you can think of a few of your own. But let''s not be negative. If you can''t find happiness among the maddening crowd in a brightly lit hall of chrome and mirrors, you may be a candidate for a home gym. The minuses of health clubs are exactly the pluses of a home gym—and a home gym has some advantages all its own.

"Mainly, it''s convenient," says Liz Neporent, president of Frontline Fitness, a consulting firm that sets up private and corporate gyms in New York City. "You''re open 24 hours a day." It''s also more private and more under your control. There''s no waiting for equipment. You can listen to jazz instead of top 40, or watch Gilligan''s Island instead of CNN. And, for the man who just wants to retreat to his castle after a strenuous workday spent fighting barbarians, there''s less time away from the bosom of the family.

Still, a home gym costs money, time and effort just like a health club. If you want to make your investment worthwhile, you have to do it right. It all comes down to two things: equipment and a place to put it.

The Real Estate

As a rule, you need the space before you can furnish it, so don''t go rushing off to a fitness supplier until you''ve come to an understanding about domestic property values and usage restrictions.

Consult the Board of Significant Others. Gain approval from the woman in your life, and even your small fry, says Neporent, before proceeding with any major expansion or even minor renovation. Will you have to move other stuff to make room for equipment? Where will you put what''s displaced? Did anyone else have designs on the space? Knowing this stuff beforehand saves trouble in the long run.

Choose an appealing spot. "If the space isn''t inviting, you won''t go to it," says Neporent. More likely than not, the best available location is lit by a bare 40-watt bulb, with cobwebs hanging off crates jammed with half-empty paint cans. A charming spot if you''re Gomez Addams. You, however, had better brighten things up. Lamps with shades, a carpet, some clear floor space to move around in—use them all to create a turf boundary between you and the spiders, she says.

Measure everything. Get a reading on floor space and, just as important, ceiling space before you buy anything, says Neporent. Also measure doorways, stairwells or any other feature of interior geography you''ll have to negotiate to get your gear where it''s going.

The Equipment

How much equipment do you need in order to qualify your setup as a bona fide gym? "What people call a home gym often amounts to just one piece of equipment," says Cathy McNeil, spokesperson for the International Health, Racquet and Sportsclub Association. In her opinion, that''s not enough. And she''s right.

Let''s be clear: Having a single piece of equipment is better than having none at all. But if you''re seriously construing your home arrangement as a club alternative, there need to be some genuine equivalencies. That means you ideally should have gear for both strength and aerobic training—in other words, free weights or a resistance-training machine, along with a cardiovascular device such as a treadmill, stationary cycle, stair-climber, rower or cross-country skier. "A stationary bike thrown in the basement is not a gym," Neporent states.

What you choose for equipment is entirely a matter of personal preference. But preferences are always swayed by the winds of enlightenment. For additional input on this score, we consulted Charles Kuntzleman, Ed.D., adjunct associate professor of kinesiology at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor. He recently conducted a massive evaluation of 130 pieces of indoor exercise equipment for Consumers Digest, coordinating reports from 50 testers, including exercise physiologists, bodybuilders, runners, cyclists, doctors, nurses and coaches. Here''s a wrap-up of what he says you need to know to be an educated buyer of home-gym equipment.

Free Weights

Think "gym" and you''re likely to picture barbells and dumbbells. We covered the relative merits of free weights versus machines in Weight Lifting on page 22, but when you''re lifting at home, there are a few other considerations to bear in mind about weights. One is the sight of them: If they''re not properly stored, they have a tendency to make a merely cluttered space verge on Animal House ambiance. Another is the sound of them. If you live above your neighbors and have, say, bare wood floors, the thunder of falling iron plates won''t earn you any friends. (It won''t do the floor much good either.) But these matters are largely fixable by being diligently neat and using cushioning materials like a workout mat or rug, or weights with vinyl coverings, says Dr. Kuntzleman. On the purchasing front, you should:

Consider your needs. Unless you''re seriously into bodybuilding (in which case you''d consider a 310-pound set of weights), a good starter set would include about 200 pounds of plates, with weight ranges from 1 to 25 pounds, along with bars to slide the plates onto, recommends Dr. Kuntzleman. Your set should include two bars for dumbbells and one for a barbell, he says.

Do a quality check. You''d think it would be hard to go wrong buying slabs of metal, but quality is indeed an issue. "On the low end, it''s unfortunately common to find weights that aren''t true," Dr. Kuntzleman says. "It might be labeled 5 pounds, but actually be 4½." Other cheapness giveaways are poorly baked paint that chips, and sharp edges in the metal. For the good stuff, expect to pay from $1 to $1.50 per pound. Quality brand names include Ivanko, York, Universal and Sonata, he says.

Get a good collar. "You have to be careful that the plates stay in place," Neporent says. There are a number of ways in which these weight-holding gizmos, or collars, work. Some just screw on like a big nut holding an oversized washer. The best, however, include some form of self-locking mechanism, usually held in place with springs that let loose only when you manually release them.

Invest in a bench. "The most common mistake is buying one that''s too narrow," Dr. Kuntzleman says. He recommends a width of at least 36 inches. Anything less won''t provide good support for your shoulders and may be downright unstable. Better benches include a number of features that are probably worth the money, he says, such as the ability to set the bench at an incline and adjust the barbell rack up and down. For materials, look for steel tubing at least two inches square and a bench covering of quality vinyl such as Naugahyde.

Multistation Machines

As we''ve said elsewhere, machines have their advantages, but at home, they have some handicaps, too. For one thing, they take up a lot of space. Not just side-to-side space, but up-and-down space. "For some machines, you need close to seven feet of overhead clearance," Dr. Kuntzleman says.

There are two basic types of home machines: the kind that uses cables to raise metal plates and the kind that forgos weight stacks in favor of some other form of resistance. These forms include oversize rubber bands or bungee cords, springs and cylinders that create resistance using air (pneumatic) or liquid (hydraulic). Non-weight-stack machines tend to be lighter, smaller and less expensive than plate-and-cable gear, but they''re sometimes not as sturdy or biomechanically sound as weight-stack units. Beyond that, consider these factors, says Dr. Kuntzleman.

Know the value of numbers. If you like knowing just how much weight you''re lifting, gravitate to machines with plates, in which you increase weight by moving a pin. With non-weight-stack machines, there''s no way of telling how upping the resistance translates to pounds.

Gauge the fuss factor. Sure, multistation gyms are designed to let you do multiple exercises, but if you have to pull something apart, change cables or otherwise reconfigure the machine for each station, you''re going to waste time. "A machine like that can add up to 45 minutes to your workout," Neporent says.

Consider safety. If there are children in the house, that alone might be a reason to avoid weight-stack machines, unless the stacks are covered by a shield that protects small fingers from getting caught between plates.

Treadmills

There are two categories of treadmills, but only one type is worth considering—motorized. With these, a small motor drives the belt on which you''re walking or running, providing a close simulation of actual outdoor locomotion. With nonmotorized units, you drive the belt, sliding it along with your feet as you go through the motions of propelling yourself forward. This might sound like a better workout because it''s more difficult, but in reality, it''s just more difficult, period. "It''s tough to get the belt moving at a consistent pace; you get tired quickly, and it''s hell on your legs," Neporent says.

Motorized treadmills are a considerable investment: Expect to pay at least $1,000 for a good unit that features electronic programming; if you''re a serious runner who will use your equipment three or more times a week, aim to spend in the $2,000 to $3,000 range. To make sure you''re investing wisely, says Dr. Kuntzleman, follow these tips.

Get a good motor. When running, you hit the mat with two to four times your body weight—a force that momentarily slows or stops the motor. To keep up a steady seven- to eight-mile-per-hour pace (and to be able to start the tread moving without taking your weight off it), you''ll need at least 1.5 horsepower. Make sure that number is labeled for "continuous duty," says Dr. Kuntzleman. Cheaper models use a sly "peak power" rating that undervalues the power available over a sustained period.

Ask for industrial strength. Welded frames of aircraft-quality aluminum or heavy steel (12-gauge or less) are de rigueur for both solidity and flexibility. Shy away from anything held together with too many bolts, says Dr. Kuntzleman, which tend to come loose and make the frame shake and squeak.

Go long. You want a surface with enough room on it, or you''ll feel like you''re running on a balance beam. Get a tread that''s at least 50 inches long, says Dr. Kuntzleman. Make it wide enough, too—18 inches, minimum.

Raise your sights. Outdoors, hills provide half the challenge. To get the same thing indoors, you''ll need a machine that can raise and lower the tread elevation while you''re running on it. Good brands include Trotter, PaceMaster and Star Trac.

Stationary Bikes

It''s a classic piece of gear, so tried and true it can be found in the basements of aging uncles and the common areas of senior centers as well as the most crowded corners of the trendiest health clubs. You can update the concept with new language (for example, "spinning"), but the basics are the same: You climb on something with a seat, a wheel, pedals and handlebars, and make like a latter-day Greg LeMond. As with most products, manufacturers are happy to tack on bells and whistles to drive the high-end market, but stationary bikes don''t have to cost a lot to provide a good workout. Here''s what should guide your purchase, according to Dr. Kuntzleman.

Choose your resistance. The bike has to work against you in some way, or you''ll make the wheel spin faster than you''re pedaling, creating a coasting effect. The choices for resistance mechanisms are:

* A weighted flywheel that''s driven by a belt. It''s inexpensive and simple but highly effective, smooth-feeling and extremely durable. Just make sure you get a wheel that''s heavy enough, with a weight of 25 to 50 pounds.

* Caliper brakes, which hold the wheel back by applying pressure to the rim. Picture riding a real bike with the brakes on all the time and you''ll understand why this mechanism feels awkward and tends to wear out relatively fast.

* Air resistance caused by fan-like aerodynamics of the wheel. It''s genuinely cool: The fan blades create a breeze that gets stronger the harder you work. (Many models also have movable handlebars that keep the upper body moving, too.) Resistance increases with faster pedaling, which is an elegant concept, but you may want other resistance-changing options.

* Magnetic resistance, in which a thin flywheel passes between two magnets, which are moved closer or farther apart electronically to change resistance. It is smooth and quiet, generally comes with superior programming features and, not surprisingly, is expensive.

Examine your needs. You have the luxury of wide price options, since good-quality bikes can be had for less than $300 as well as for high-end prices of above $1,500. If all you''re looking for is a decent workout that has the feel of outdoor riding, you don''t need to spend more than a few hundred bucks, says Scott Schaeffer, fitness manager at Tom Schaeffer''s Recreation and Sports Center in Shoemakersville, Pennsylvania.

As you move up the price scale, a basic bike becomes an ergometer—equipped with electronic displays that show you things like precise pedaling resistance, calories burned, heart rate and revolutions per minute. These are good for calibrating your workout to exact parameters, matching your performance on a different machine if you train elsewhere, grading yourself against national standards and competing against other bikers or a computerized opponent. But even basic bikes usually have a speedometer, odometer and timer. Do you need more? Your choice.

Focus on fundamentals. Whatever you choose, the most important qualities to look for are comfort and solidness, says Eric Holland, a sales representative at Bike Line in Emmaus, Pennsylvania. You don''t want the bike rocking while you''re rolling, and you don''t want numb buns or a sore back. The seat and handlebars should be adjustable but firmly held in place with a pin that drives all the way through the seat tube and post, then locks into place. "There have been a couple of lawsuits about collapsing seats," Neporent says. "If you''re a heavy rider and the seat fails, I''ll leave it to your imagination where the pole goes."

Stair-Climbers

Why buy a machine when there are real stairs to climb? Well, if you''re the retro-grouch type, maybe a stair-climber isn''t for you. If, however, you want a great aerobic workout that''s easy on bones and joints, trains muscles for familiar, real-life, day-to-day movements and gets you off your butt while you watch TV, this may be the thing for you. Go a step beyond, and your workout will seem more like mountain climbing: Technically, the market is divided into steppers, which work just the lower body, and climbers, which provide handles to grasp so that your motion is more akin to scaling a ladder. Here''s what you need to consider, says Dr. Kuntzleman.

Vote on independence. The foot platforms on stair-climbers go up and down in two different ways. With one, the pedals move in tandem, so that when one foot goes down, the opposite pedal goes up automatically. It feels balanced and is easy to get the hang of. With the other, each pedal moves independently of the other, which theoretically provides a slightly better workout. Independent movement takes a bit more getting used to, but feels quite natural once you do. One isn''t better than the other, just different. Try them both and decide for yourself.

Consider mechanics. As with stationary bikes, stair-climbers require you to work against a force. On the low end, resistance comes from pushing pedals against pressure from a hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder. Hydraulic cylinders are usually filled with oil, which keeps them lubricated and free of maintenance problems. Pneumatic cylinders are a bit more troublesome because inner friction and heat tends to wear them down.

Higher-end machines forsake cylinders altogether in favor of cables or chains that wrap around a flywheel. The extra cost buys you a quieter and smoother workout, for starters. Beyond that, "the higher-end machines have better railings along the sides or top, feel more substantial and have graphic displays that provide more information with greater accuracy," Neporent says. Bottom-line, acceptable units can be found for under $500, but our experts draw a "can''t-go-wrong" line at around $1,200.

Judge by feel. Try out any machine you''re considering for at least 10 to 15 minutes to make sure it feels comfortable. It shouldn''t make your feet tingle or feel odd, or make you bend over while you exercise. The pedals should be wide enough to make your feet feel stable and secure, and the motion should feel smooth and steady, not sticky.

Rowers

All over the land, rowing machines are gathering cobwebs in dusty basements and attics, the detritus of yet another passing fitness fad, circa 1985. It''s too bad, really, since rowers offer the unusual advantage of simultaneously working both the lower and upper body without putting undue strain on either. That''s what sold people on them in the first place. So what happened? Mostly, manufacturers flooded the market with shoddy goods that turned buyers off. The majority of these provided resistance using hydraulic or pneumatic cylinders, which, beyond their technical liabilities, didn''t feel at all like real rowing. Fortunately, there are plenty of good units still out there. Here''s what to look for, says Dr. Kuntzleman.

Look for wheel resistance. Quality manufacturers dispensed with shock absorbers and turned to wheels: You pull on the handle, which spins a fanlike flywheel via a cable or belt. As with some exercise cycles, the harder you pull, the more resistance you get from the fan. Perhaps the best-known of these is the Concept II rower, but similar designs are offered by companies like Tunturi and Ross; all of these fall in the $700 range. The hands-down coolest rower, however (for a few hundred dollars more), is the WaterRower, in which the "wheel" is a tank of water containing a stainless steel paddle that rotates when you pull back on the handle. You can change the resistance by filling or draining the tank. Best of all, the paddle''s motion produces the gratifying gurgling sound of swooshing water. You can find out more about the WaterRower by calling 1-800-852-2210.

Consider stowability. Some of these units seem to take up as much space as a rowing shell on the Charles—lengths of eight feet aren''t uncommon. Check to see if it can be stood upright against a wall (even the WaterRower can be tipped without spilling), or easily broken down.

Cross-Country Skiers

Although it''s not the only player in the market anymore, NordicTrack has been synonymous with this type of machine for years, with good reason: Their equipment has consistently been well-made and fairly priced. In fact, Dr. Kuntzleman''s choices for best buys in this category are all NordicTrack models, ranging from $400 to $600. Says Neporent, "They''re one of the best fitness bargains out there." Indoor skiing is an acquired taste, not to mention an acquired skill—difficult and awkward at first, but easily mastered after one or two practice sessions. More than in other categories, you can quickly narrow your candidates for purchase, says Dr. Kuntzleman, but you still need to evaluate a number of options.

Get the movement you want. A number of competing models offer "dependent" motion of the feet similar to some stair-climbers: Moving one foot moves the other the opposite way. NordicTrack has kept to independent foot movement, which is part of what makes you feel so gangly on the machines at first, but which more closely simulates real skiing. It''s the same story with arm movement: Moving arms in tandem is easier, but working them independently is generally better. (With some models, you pull on cables or belts; with others, you hang on to poles.)

Determine the features you want. As usual, the higher you move up the price range, the more information you get from electronic displays, such as speed, distance and time. How much of this you need is a matter of taste.